Great for catching lead falls. This assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but not as powerful as the active assisted braking devices in our review. You can still see all customer reviews for the product. For ore information, including how to change your settings, see our. Not anymore! Autolocking so that it's very easy on your hands on those long belays when someone is working a route. When used properly and paired with an appropriate rope system, the Mega Jul offers good assisted braking capability in a lightweight package. I tried using the Mega Jul with other locking carabiners of various sizes, and it didn’t quite work as well. Compared to $89.00. We don’t have a paywall and you don’t have to be a member to access thousands of articles, photos and videos. Three rappelling modes 4. MANUAL. This gives the Mega Jul a huge advantage over most other autoblock devices, which require more fiddling and backups. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. The Jul 2 is slated as a single tubular belay device. Suitable for 7.8 - 10.5 mm ropes you won't have issues matching it to … The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport provides assisted-braking belays for both single and double/twin ropes (7.9 to 11 mm). It is very easy to use and the added safety of the assisted braking makes belaying much easier, although good belay technique should always be used. Works just like an ATC with a lot of added features. Hook your hand underneath the thumb loop as well as the rope so both are sitting in the “basket” between your thumb and palm. Being incredibly lightweight, no moving parts, and very easy to use, the Mega Jul is my new assisted braking belay device of choice. The shape, size, and weight may seem dainty. Two observations: First, I recommend using belay gloves, especially for lead belays, since you can get a rope burn on the crease between your thumb and palm when using the device in Thumb Mode. When the leader falls, the device will lock the rope, and the belayer must use the thumb hook to lever up the device, freeing the rope. Again, belay gloves are a must. Reviewed in the United States on July 13, 2017, Reviewed in the United States on February 9, 2019. Our editorial and design team—and all of our contributors—are climbers just like you who love the sport and want to share all the great things it has to offer. Most assisted-braking devices only allow one strand of the climbing rope, and out of the rest this Mega Jul is one of the lightest and most compact. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Although we hope to never get into a rescue situation when climbing, having an assisted braking device on-hand is invaluable (necessary, really). You can expect durability and longevity out of this device thanks to its stainless steel construction. Load the rope into the device such that the thumb loop points away from you. Much smoother to belay and lower with than a GriGri, and lighter too. Reviewed in the United States on August 23, 2016, After trying and loving the Edelrid Jul 2 device, Reviewed in the United States on May 8, 2017. In essence it is an auto locking tuber plate. The most versatile ever belay device. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. Jul ‘Mdama stands ready to challenge all enemies of the Covenant! Out of all the assisted-braking belay devices and carabiners, Edelrid's Mega Jul Belay Kit is probably the most practical option for multi-pitches and alpine approaches, especially if there are rappels involved. I found Lever Mode preferable. The Mega Jul’s most distinctive feature is plastic green U-shaped bend in the device’s cable. Disclaimer – CGR reviewers are never paid to provide a review and the website does not take advertising or link to affiliate sales. Would love your thoughts, please comment. (Always wrap the ropes around your leg if you’re going to let go of the brake hand.). Despite a rocky start, Edelrid’s Mega Jul is now my belay device of choice for all alpine and multi-pitch rock climbing. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. Like most other belay/rappel devices on today’s market, you can belay a second from above with auto-blocking capabilities. The Mega Jul Sport is the latest assisted braking tube-style belay device made by Edelrid. This multifunctional tube-style device is super light, feeds slack to a leader much more quickly than other devices in its category, and can be used in a number of different configurations that increase its braking power to a degree on par with mechanical auto-locking devices. If someone is climbing, they fall and you don't break, it will auto-break for you (balance, weight, position and friction). One: use the device in Thumb Mode by pulling the thumb loop and rope away from the harness, this time with your left hand, and controlling the descent with your brake/right hand. Cheaper and way lighter than a Grisgris, just as effective as an autolocker, plus easier to use. Once I got it sussed, however, I could put a second (or two seconds) on belay quickly. This is an AWESOME belay device. The Mega Jul is the lightest, most versatile and best-performing all-around belay device I’ve ever used—once you get comfortable with it. The Mega Jul loaded for lead belay or toprope belay. ADD TO CART . The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport works much like a regular tube device, except it has an elongated wire loop with an ergonomic section "thumb hook". VIDEO. [Photo] Andrew Councell. Reviewed in the United States on February 11, 2020. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. I tested it with the Edelrid HMS Strike Screw FG, which can be purchased with the Mega Jul as a package for $49.95. 2 years ago. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. It is a light, small, durable, and multi-function device. I've used the MegaJul a couple of times now and it is so much more comfortable for me! There's a problem loading this menu right now. For 35 years Rock and Ice has committed to excellence and authenticity. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. Best of all, the Mega Jul locks down on the rope in the event of a fall because the locking carabiner pinches the rope into a notch in the device. PRODUCT INFORMATION. Assisted-Braking Mode: When belaying a leader off the harness, I usually use the Giga Jul in assisted-braking mode. Does it all. Tuber Mode, in which the thumb loop is pointing toward your body, makes the Mega Jul work like a standard tube-style rap device—back yourself up with a prussik and rappel as normal. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. I clip my ATC Guide to my harness for multi-pitch ventures and keep my GriGri racked with my sport draws and that’s almost all I ever think about belay devices. Metolius. This video shows all of the proper techniques for Mega Jul use. Overall, the Mega Jul is a cleverly designed belay device that does things that similar looking devices do not, whilst offering more security. Basically it is fool-proof. But we can’t do it without you.Your support is critical for keeping our website free and delivering the most current news, the most in-depth stories and the best photography in the climbing world. It is a bit fussy to use at first and requires a considered and experienced approach, but once you get the hang of it the Mega Jul works rather well and is particularly versatile. Order-No. Edelrid Mega Jul | $29.95 edelrid.de.com ★★★★ The Edelrid Mega Jul comes as close to being a do-it-all, one-stop-shop no-drop belay/rappel device as any I’ve ever seen. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Lots of control when lowering the climber and can be used for rappelling as well. Great belay device. 7.8-10.5mm. Edelrid’s new Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device. I have never personally had rope slip though this device unintentionally, although anything can happen. overall its a good product for gym applications. SLATE. $62.29. Another great feature is that if you need to a lower a second in this configuration, you can clip a third carabiner through the small hole at the “nose tip” feature and use that as a lever to release the auto-block. However, the Mega Jul is certainly not the perfect all-around belay device, which is why I continue to use other belay devices for certain situations. Here are some observations about general usability, relative to a Mega Jul, Grigri 2, and DMM Pivot. The Edelrid Mega Jul is a lightweight stainless steel belay device suitable for light and fast alpine adventures or multi-lap cragging days. The EDELRID Mega Jul is awesome; super lightweight, easy to use, and covers all the bases. Turn it backwards to rappel and use a prussic backup.... And tie knots in the end of the rope. — Assisted breaking on rappel in Locked Mode. This “thumb loop” is primarily used during lead belays. Find out why this is a go-to belay device. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question. For rappeling, there are two configurations: Tuber Mode and Locked Mode. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The most versatile ever belay device. The Edelrid Mega Jul is an innovative belay device. It’s most similar to the Edelrid Mega Jul ($34.95) and the Mammut Smart ($29.95), but adds the benefit of a much softer catch. Especially good for lead belaying as the thumb hook allows the belayer to feed slack smoothly but grabbing the rope instantly locks. rockandice.com is completely free. I had to dedicate some time to memorizing the way the device worked in order to not fumble around with it out in the field. — Assisted breaking for lead belays and belaying seconds from above. TECHNICAL INFORMATION. As the only tube-style and passive (read: no moving parts) assisted-braking device in this review, the Mega Jul Sport relies purely on the geometry of the device and the angle of the rope to catch a fall. Edelrid Mega Jul | $29.95  edelrid.de.com  ★★★★. Its name is the Mega Jul. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. Reviewed in the United States on January 9, 2020. It took a bit of getting used to for feeding and lowering smoothly but great now. it has a good brake assist but i was expecting it to be more like the first jul where it fully locks the rope. (100) 100 reviews with an average rating of 4.75 out of 5 stars. Much smoother to belay and lower with than a GriGri, and lighter too. Reviewed in the United States on December 20, 2014. Carabiners of thicker diameters performed better, but thinner carabiners allowed rope slip. It can be used in a gym, for Sport, Trad, and Multi-pitches with ease. … Continue reading “Beer and Gear, Ep. You clip through the metal loop just beside the thumb loop. Feeding slack is accomplished by lifting the thumb loop (and rope) up away from your body. A clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. VIDEO from Weigh My Rack: Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. One person found this helpful Helpful Hold the rope with your brake/right hand when preparing to lower a climber, and use your left thumb to push down on the part of the device that looks like the tip of a nose, which releases the break on the rope. Pull slack with your guide hand (left hand) and the rope feeds through the device much quicker and more easily than with other tube-style belay devices. Second, because this device can be used in so many configurations, I found it initially confusing. The Jul 2 is a single rope assisted braking device, the Mega Jul takes two ropes and has a sport climbing version as well, and the Micro Jul is the incredibly lightweight version of this for use with Edelrid's super-thin alpine ropes. Jul ‘Mdama defends the Covenant with fortitude! I've used this now in the gym and lead-climbing in the Needles of SD. 16 | Petzl – Grigri, Meteor Helmet, Dart Crampons, and Swift RL Headlamp”, Privacy Notice: Our site uses cookies for advertising, analytics and to improve our sites and services. SRP £60 The Edelrid Giga Jul is available from specialist retailers. The ropes lock up when you’re not pulling on your carabiner-lever, allowing you a great deal of security to deal with tangles, etc. I also got confused about which direction to put the bite of rope through the device. Edelrid Mega Jul Review Edelrid have released a new belay plate to the market. --Product Information--Product Name: Mega Jul Product Brand: Edelrid Best Use: Belaying and abseiling. It takes ropes between 7.8 and 10.5 mm and has a smaller brother called the Micro Jul. I was skeptical because of the price until I saw my friend use it in action. Lower yourself by clipping a second locking biner through the small hole located at the “nose tip” feature, and use the carabiner like a Grigri lever. By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookies. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner — Tube-style device for Single, Twin and Half ropes. Your recently viewed items and featured recommendations, Select the department you want to search in, Reviewed in the United States on January 15, 2017. If you want a mix between a Gri-Gri and an ATC this is it. I saw a friend with one of these at our climbing gym. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. To lower a leader after a fall, there are two options—neither one fantastic, representing the biggest shortcoming with this device, but both get the job done. The Mega Jul is affordable, costing about $35. Lastly, it does take practice to smoothly lead belay using a Mega Jul. It’s tied for the least-expensive brake-assist device on the market at $29.95. Initially, I had a tough time with this mode because my natural instinct was to clip the device to the anchor from the thumb loop—not correct! Two: Lever Mode. MSRP: $75   When I show up to the crag with a tube-style belay device these days, it seems like every climber looks askance at me and the deprecated technology I cling to, as … Continue reading “Beal Birdie Belay Device”, In this special Gear Guide edition of Beer and Gear, Delaney and Francis take a look at some new gear from Petzl—the Grigri, the Dart crampons, the Meteor helmet, and the Swift RL headlamp. We are a bunch of keen climbers and travellers that accept sample products and offer an honest and independent review of the item. In addition to the brake-assist ("thumb mode") using the thumb hook, the Mega Jul can also be oriented in auto-block or "guide mode" for belaying climbers from above. Disabling it will result in some disabled or missing features. The key is almost. Field test review of the new Edelrid Mega Jul belay device, a serious contender for a “semi-auto” device. Reviewed in the United States on December 17, 2019. I am still figuring out how to get the smoothest lower, but I struggle with it far less than the GriGri. The Mega Jul has become my go-to belay device. Top subscription boxes – right to your door, See all details for EDELRID Mega Jul Belay Device - Slate, © 1996-2020, Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates. But by moving the slider in the center and flipping the orientation, you quickly go from a manual-braking to assisted-braking device—the options include manual-braking or assisted-braking lead and toprope belay, guide-mode top belay, and manual-braking or assisted-braking rappel. During a month-long learning curve I was 50/50 for loading the device wrong when belaying a second from above. Easily my go to belay device, and several other people at my gym have bought them after trying mine. I know some people have trouble unlocking the device after a fall, and you do have to pay attention to be sure it unlocks, but even with a 90lb weight difference between my climbing partner and me, I don't have any real trouble. Edelrid Mega Jul Review - Review of the "assisted braking" ATC. Break assist, twin/double ropes, single rope, rappel, and guide mode. Top reasons why people like Edelrid Mega Jul: 1. The instructional graphics on the side of the device didn’t really help, either. Review: Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device There’s always room for innovation in climbing gear, but I thought belay devices had been pretty well figured out. The stainless steel core means it will last for years without wear and it’ll reduce heat build-up on long belay sessions. Edelrid Mega Jul Field test review of the new Edelrid Mega Jul belay device, a serious contender for a “semi-auto” device. The EDELRID Mega Jul is awesome; super lightweight, easy to use, and covers all the bases. Fantastic and easy to feed rope on lead belay once you figure it out. Edelrid Mega Jul Sport: $36. 717840006630. Mega Jul does everything. Refillable Super Chalk Sock (53) 53 reviews with an average rating of 4 out of 5 stars. The braking mechanism relies purely on the simple shape and angle of the device to catch a fall. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. I had been considering purchasing a Gri-Gri so my wife could learn how to belay me, but the price was high enough where it always got pushed to the back of my wish-list. 16 | Petzl – Grigri, Meteor Helmet, Dart Crampons, and Swift RL Headlamp”. Reviewed in the United States on February 1, 2020. Overall, the Mega Jul is a cleverly designed belay device that does things that similar looking devices do not, whilst offering more security. ... (as in the Mega Jul) or turn it off and have a regular tube device. Good for belaying up a second and rappelling in both a high friction and a low friction mode. MEGA JUL (0) EN DE US FR (0) MEGA JUL. This is a passive assisted braking device because it does not have any moving parts. The auto-lock can be a bit touchy at times and lowering can be a bit jumpy but all in all it's a great device and gives me a peace of mind (Especially having the auto-lock while rapping). This page works best with JavaScript. It's light weight and versatile but has the auto-lock feature. The type of locking carabiner you pair with the Mega Jul is important. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a new and improved version of the older Mega Jul, and we think it is worthy of our Top Pick for Multi-Pitch Climbing because it combines assisted braking, standard tube-style use ("manual" mode), and auto-block all in one single device. Your subscription to our award-winning print magazine or donation will help us continue down a path that is uncompromised, and keep the website free for climbers like you. Packed with premium decoration and an authentic Energy Sword, this highly collectible, deluxe micro action figure comes with detachable armor and can be posed with a clear display rod on a buildable stand featuring printed name detail. The Mega Jul has become my go-to … The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Weight: 65 g Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. Passive assisted braking 3. I often feel out of control using the lever on the GriGri and also wanted a two rope rappel compatible device. I have used it daily in the gym and have taken it on 8 hour multi-pitch routes and it has worked unbelievably. I know companies today shy away from the word “auto-locking” but Mega Jul certainly does a great job of braking a fall with very little effort. Lightweight 2. Finally something better than my atc guide I've used for 10 years. In this configuration, you never have to take your break hand off the rope. I used the Mega Jul in a climbing self-rescue course and it was excellent. It feeds almost as quickly and easily as a Grigri 2. The Edelrid Mega Jul comes as close to being a do-it-all, one-stop-shop no-drop belay/rappel device as any I’ve ever seen. After viewing product detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in. review of the Mega Jul ATC belay device. “Beer and Gear, Ep. Pull down on it while holding the rope with your free hand, and enjoy a controlled descent down double ropes. ... although we will look at that briefly in this review. Reviewed in the United States on December 29, 2017. Auto-locks even if brake end of rope What you're looking for is at the end, and involves clipping a biner through the nose to use for leverage. Locked Mode rappelling, probably the most exciting feature of the Mega Jul, is when the thumb loop is pointed away from your body. He showed me how it worked and I immediately purchased one. INSPECTION INSTRUCTION / SUMMARIES. As an avid 5.12/5.13 climber, I have used the majority of belay devices on the market and this is easily in my top three favorites! The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. It is a bit fussy to use at first and requires a considered and experienced approach, but once you get the hang of it the Mega … Prime members enjoy FREE Delivery and exclusive access to music, movies, TV shows, original audio series, and Kindle books. Breakdown by star, we don ’ t use a prussic backup.... tie... Provides assisted-braking belays for both single and double/twin ropes ( 7.9 to 11 mega jul review.. 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